Every October, the same migration happens along the Midcoast: summer people button up their houses, turn the key, and head south or back to the city — hoping everything will be fine until spring. Most years, it is. But coastal Maine winters are unforgiving, and the houses that fare worst are the ones that were closed up in a hurry. Here’s how to do it right, based on guidance from Maine’s own emergency management agency and years of walking through other people’s homes in November.
Start with the heat decision
You have two real choices: keep the heat on low, or shut the water off entirely and let the house go cold. There isn’t much middle ground.
If you keep the heat on, the Maine Emergency Management Agency advises setting the thermostat no lower than 55°F — and the American Red Cross says the same. Below that, you’re gambling with pipes in exterior walls and crawl spaces. A consistent 55 keeps the structure safe without heating an empty house to comfort levels. (The U.S. Department of Energy’s guidance for short absences is a setback of 10–15 degrees from your normal setting — but for a whole Maine winter, 55°F is the floor the emergency professionals recommend, not a suggestion.)
If you’d rather not heat all winter, the alternative is a full plumbing shutdown: turn off the main water supply, drain the pipes, drain the water heater (after shutting it off — electric at the breaker, gas at the valve), flush toilets to empty tanks and bowls, and pour non-toxic RV antifreeze (the pink stuff, never automotive antifreeze) into every drain trap — sinks, tubs, showers, floor drains. Don’t forget the dishwasher, washing machine, and ice maker lines, which all hold water. Done correctly, a drained house can sit through a Maine winter unheated. Done halfway, it’s worse than doing nothing, because you’ll assume you’re safe when you’re not.
Pipes: the number one winter enemy
Frozen pipes cause more winter damage to Maine homes than just about anything else. MEMA notes that a mere 1/8-inch crack in a pipe can release up to 250 gallons of water a day — soaking floors, walls, and everything you own. And the cruel part is that the real flooding often happens during the thaw, weeks after the freeze, when nobody’s around to notice.
Before you leave: insulate pipes near exterior walls, in crawl spaces, and in the attic with purpose-made pipe insulation (available at any hardware store). Seal gaps where cold air can reach plumbing — a high wind through a small opening can freeze a nearby pipe even when the room itself feels fine. Disconnect garden hoses and shut off and drain the lines to exterior faucets. Know exactly where your main water shutoff is, and make sure it’s labeled — in an emergency, nobody should have to hunt for it.
Don’t forget the rest of the house
Fuel: If you heat with oil or propane, top off the tank before you leave. Running out of fuel in February means no heat, frozen pipes, and an emergency delivery at the worst possible time. Make sure your fuel company knows the house will be unoccupied but heated — most will keep you on their radar.
Humidity and moisture: A house closed up tight all winter can develop moisture problems, especially in basements. Clear gutters and downspouts so meltwater drains away from the foundation, and consider a dehumidifier with a continuous drain in damp-prone areas.
Storm prep: Nor’easters don’t care that you’re in Florida. Secure or store outdoor furniture, grills, and anything that becomes a projectile in high winds. Trim dead limbs near the house, and give the roof a quick look for missing shingles before snow load arrives.
Security and presence: Set lights on staggered timers. Have the post office hold or forward your mail — an overflowing mailbox advertises that nobody’s home. Unplug major appliances but leave power on for the sump pump, alarm, and exterior lighting. Tell a trusted neighbor you’re leaving and share your contact info.
The fridge and the pantry: Clean out everything perishable. Even dry goods can attract mice looking for a winter home — and a mouse in the pantry in October becomes a mouse in the walls by December. Take food with you or throw it out.
The step most people skip: arrange for eyes on the house
MEMA’s guidance for an extended winter absence is blunt: have someone check your house regularly to make sure the heat is still on, or drain and shut off the water system. A furnace can fail on the coldest night of the year. The difference between a $200 service call and a $20,000 water damage claim is usually just how many days pass before someone walks through the door.
That’s the whole idea behind professional home watch: scheduled visits, a written checklist, and photo documentation after every visit — through the entire season, including after every big storm. Whether it’s us or someone you trust completely, don’t let your house sit unwatched from October to May. Maine winters are long, and small problems become big ones in the dark.
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Sources consulted
Maine Emergency Management Agency, “Preventing or Thawing Frozen Water Pipes” — http://www.maine.gov/mema/maine-prepares/home-preparedness/preventing-thawing-frozen-pipes
Portland Water District, “Cold Weather Tips” — https://www.pwd.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/cold_weather_tips_bill_slip_final.pdf
UF/IFAS Extension, “Closing Your Seasonal Home” — https://ask.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/HE887.pdf
Economical Insurance, “A step-by-step guide to closing your cottage for the winter” — http://www.economicalgroup.com/blog/eco-blog/september-2017/tips-for-closing-your-cottage-for-winter
BoxTrack, “Snowbird Checklist: Closing Up Your Home” (citing American Red Cross guidance) — https://box-track.com/free/snowbird-checklist
